Video off cuts: leftovers from the C4 pig project. Pt3.5

My travels with the channel 4 Pig have come to an end now. To recap, I got Tim Wilson of The Ginger Pig to cut up a side into the ten main cuts and then took those cuts to 10 chefs around the country. See part 1, 2 and um, 3.0 here.

Paul Askew, The London Carriage Works, Liverpool

Does this train stop at Merseyside? Asked Ian Prowse, lead singer of Amsterdam. Well the 10:07 from London Euston to Liverpool Lime Street is as near as damn it and so I set forth once more to the city on the mouth of the mighty Mersey.

I was back in town to meet up again is Paul Askew, Chef Patron of The London Carriage Works, the restaurant in the Hope Street Hotel. I’d met him before on the Big British Food map, and he spoke then about a loin of Duroc pork dish that he does.  So he seemed the perfect chap to handle the loin.

I got into town by 12:15, that West Coast Mainline upgrade meaning it really is possible to go to Liverpool for lunch. I left my stuff at reception and killed an hour around town. Liverpool’s really grown on me of late. It has more Georgian architecture that Bath apparently, which provided homes to the ‘Liverpool Gentleman (the opposite of the Manchester man). Stuart Marconie described scousers as the Basques of the north, and there’s always been an otherness about Merseyside.

An hour round Liverpool

Anyhow a walk round Hope Street took into a few interesting things. Firstly, I stumbled on Mackenzie’s tomb, which is the first line in the Amsterdam song quoted and linked to above . There’s more on the legend of Mackenzie here, a legend of ghosts, gambling, body snatching, death and devilish pacts – wooooooooooooo!  Next, and slightly more food related, was this lunch board offering scouse for lunch. Nice to see the dish that gives scousers their name actually available in their city. (Read more on my search for scouse). I also took in a lovely old bookshop, and with that it was back to meet and film Paul.


Paul’s loin recipe is below, but it’s worth taking a look at one of the ingredients in greater detail. The natural jus as Paul calls it, is made a couple of times a week in a massive 500 litre sauce pan the size of a garden pond. Into this goes just about every bone, vegetable peeling and off cut from the last few days in the kitchen. To this they add herbs and spices and then simmer, very slowly for a very long time. Then they reduce and pass, reduce and pass until the whole thing is down to about 5 litres. What Paul has left is the most incredible sauce, it’s almost tar like in it’s appearance, and incredibly rich. Just a few trickles dressing the plate can add punch to any dish. If you want to try to make it at home… well don’t bother is the short answer – but if you want to I’m guess the recipe goes something like this. Go to a proper market or catering suppliers and buy the biggest pan they have. Next go to the butchers and get bones, off cuts and scraps of beef and chicken for next to nothing. Back home roast all the bones in a hot oven. Transfer to the pot, deglaze the tray and add a miropoix of vegetables. Add seasoning, perhaps some wine and then simmer for days…

Paul Askew’s Loin recipe & video demo (pop up)

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These are my personal views and not those of Channel 4 or the BBC
February 2009

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